Spring is well underway now, with most of the early blossoms done in my neighborhood. And as much as frozen peas are nice there is nothing quite like fresh spring ones. Here I pair them with a few great quality spices, pasta, and country ham. Included are some vegan substitution suggestions as well!
Boil 6 quarts of water with 3 tablespoons sea salt (double this if you use a light and flaky salt like kosher salt).
Add the pasta to your boiling water and give it a good stir.
In a very large skillet over medium heat add 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the onion, and a few pinches of salt. Sauté until the onion is golden and soft (about 9-10 minutes).
Add the peas to the pot of pasta water. Add the ham and a generous grind of pepper and nutmeg to the skillet and raise the heat a bit. Cook for 2-3 minutes more, just to heat the pieces through.
The pasta should be al dente and the peas bright green right as the ham finishes warming. Drain, reserving a large cup of the cooking water.
Mix the pasta into the skillet and stir well to combine, then start adding the pasta water bit by bit, just until you form a smooth sauce that coats the pasta. You can optionally add a bit of cream as well.
Plate and garnish with chives.
Recipe Note
Variations & Ideas:
• Flavor Boost:
- Add spices to the pasta cooking water. I find that a teaspoon or two of Bernise or Pierre Poivre works wonders. And then reserve the pasta water as a flavorful starter for a soup. You can cook the discarded pea pods, trimmings from the country ham, and the onion scraps to make a simple stock.
• Vegetarian? Instead of salt use Smoked Salt N8 when cooking the onion. Substitute the country ham with: fermented black beans or doubanjiang.
• Veggie substitutions work great also. Try leek whites for the onion. Asparagus tips for the peas. Fava beans. Spinach. Explore!
• When I'm feeling like something richer I like giving this dish the carbonara treatment, mixing in egg and grated Pecorino Sardo.